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Chef Clayton Donovan hard at work (picture courtesy SkyScans) and one of Jaaning Tree's signature dishes - citrus cured crocodile wonton stack. |
Bush tucker meets cutting edge cuisine in Nambucca
ISSUE 183 - 07 Aug 2009
NEW SOUTH WALES
ISSUE 183, August 6, 2009:INDIGENOUS chef, Clayton Donovan is receiving acclaim for his restaurant which was opened recently in Nambucca Heads.
Jaaning Tree is situated right on the water's edge overlooking the river and headland and Clayton's subtle combinations of native and traditional flavours results in recipes unique to Jaaning Tree.
One stunning dish is kangaroo part smoked with Lemon Myrtle with roasted beetroot, carrots and pear and a chocolate jus, an offshoot of a traditional French venison recipe .
Another unique flavour is the pepperberry cheescake which has a delightful combination between sweet and savoury.
It takes significant passion and skill to balance the strong flavours of Australia's native ingredients and Clayton is constantly designing and trying new recipes, varying the menu as new dishes pass his rigorous appraisal.
The name Jaaning (pronounced "jaa-nee") is Gumbaynggir for the Acacia irrorata or wattle tree.
The restaurant's website explains:
"For centuries this tree has been a unique source of food for the local Indigenous people. The new tree stems known as Jaanings are rolled in the thick sweet sap that oozes from the bark to make "bush lollys". The tree is also unique in its ability to flower when all other wattles have finished."
The story behind Clayton and his wife, Jane, is just as interesting as the food.
Clayton was encouraged by his boss in Nambucca to move to Sydney to expand the cooking skills he so obviously possessed.
Then Jane came in to the picture. Clayton says he fell in love with Jane when he saw her working the 'front of house' at the same restaurant and just had to meet her.
Heading off to the UK to get married in Jane's home town, Clayton ended up as Head Chef at a number of prestigious UK restaurants.
Clayton and Jane returned to Clayton's home town of Nambucca with the express purpose of establishing their own restaurant.
After 12 months of researching they found the right place and obtained a loan through Indigenous Business Australia (IBA) and joined the Bush Foods Sensations Program implemented by the NSW Department of State and Regional Development. Jaaning Tree opened in November 2008.
"Our food is fully prepared by us, no packaged ingredients at all. We source our produce as locally as possible and the seafood definitely comes from the local fishermen," Clayton said.
Jane is just as enthusiastic.
"We take a lot of pride in our wine list, tasting and selecting wines not available through wine outlets and we spend a lot of time training our staff. It takes a lot to get a customer to visit and we want them to come back.
"We also have pride in Aboriginal culture and on the walls are artworks by local artists such as Danielle Burford and Lee Freestone."
The town is benefiting from Jaaning Tree as well.
Veronica, the Manager of the Riverview Lodge, a stone's throw from Jaaning Tree, says that never before has she had people book in just so they can go to a restaurant.
Jaaning Tree is also starting to obtain bookings from townships up to a two hour drive away.
This is definitely one restaurant that should be treated as a destination.
Details about the restaurant can be seen on-line at www.jaaningtree.com.au
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